How do you come up the dishes for each of the Lucques Group’s varying restaurants?
Each place has its own personality, so I first do my own approach [based on] what I like. Then I collaborate with Suzanne. We tweak things and then decide which restaurant each dish should go to.
What’s it like working for such a celebrated chef like Suzanne Goin?
We follow the same philosophy of cooking. We both like sensually delicious, close-to-the heart desserts. Nothing gimmicky. Plus she’s amazing and she treats everyone well. Everyone loves her.
What’s a favorite dessert so far?
The Apple Ribbon at Lucques—ridiculously shaved apples rolled tightly and caramelized in the oven. The first time I [made] it, my employees said I lost my mind. It’s a favorite of Suzanne’s and Caroline’s because it highlights the fruit itself, but makes it more gorgeous than it is.
About croissants, what’s the secret?
Good butter—I use French butter—time and patience.
What dessert trend should go away?
Vegan desserts. I believe in them, but I don’t like what’s happening to them. Desserts can be made healthier, but it shouldn’t be done just because it’s popular. It should be done right.
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