Salads, tartare, crudo and more make up the starters at Ètra; PHOTO BY DANIELLE G. ADAMS
When Ètra opened in the up-and-coming Melrose Hill neighborhood about a year ago, it quickly garnered buzz for its approachable Italian cuisine made with local California produce, the intuitive, welcoming service, and a convivial energy night after night. The intimate restaurant and its daytime sister spot, Café Telegrama—owned by general manager Andrew Lawson, executive chef Evan Algorri, and real estate developer Tyler Stonebreaker—is only improving with time.
The dorade with red pepper and Sichuan salt is a must-order dish; PHOTO BY DANIELLE G. ADAMS
With walls lined in birch wood paneling, pared-down design and flattering lighting, Ètra’s dining room has a warm, easygoing vibe thanks to Echo Park-based artist John Zabawa of Roller Studio, who designed the space. “He referenced midcentury Sea Ranch architecture mixed with a very minimalist, vaguely Scandinavian feel with the Hans-Agne Jakobsson lights,” says Algorri. “He did a wonderful job creating a room that, in my opinion, has the best energy in the city on a bumping Friday or Saturday night.” Lawson’s eclectic taste in music provides the soundtrack, which ranges from playlists to full albums—everything from jazz to D’Angelo to Black Sabbath is in rotation.
Chef Evan Algorri and GM Andrew Lawson own the restaurant with real estate developer Tyler Stonebreaker; PORTRAIT BY OHN ZABAWA
Made up of Italian-style dishes that show off L.A.’s uber-fresh produce, the menu is a reflection of Algorri’s experiences—travels throughout Italy, time at Michelin-starred kitchens, including Marea and Bouley in New York, and the food he loved to eat growing up, both at home and at local restaurants like Angelini Osteria. My husband and I loved everything we ordered, starting with the beef tartare with crispy garlic and the honey gems salad with apple, basil and Piave. Both dishes were flavor-packed without being overwhelming and presented in a beautiful, unpretentious way. We moved on to perfectly cooked and seasoned bucatini alle vongole with basil and breadcrumbs and spaghetti pomodoro before diving into the fish: dorade with red pepper and Sichuan salt. Every dish we tried was a wow, so flavorful and memorable. We ended the night with a sumptuous sticky toffee pudding—a dessert I could eat daily. Other menu items I can’t wait to try are also some of Algorri’s favorites: the crudos, the pork chop and the campanelle with vodka sauce and shrimp. Wine lovers will appreciate Lawson’s selection of unique, terroir-driven bottles from smaller producers throughout Italy, France and California.
“I don’t think there’s anything better than bellying up to the bar ordering like a delicious, perfectly executed spaghetti pomodoro and a glass of wine,” says Algorri; PHOTO BY DANIELLE G. ADAMS
I’m not sure if it’s the food, the atmosphere, the service or the design, but one year in, Ètra already feels like an L.A. mainstay. “Opening the restaurant, it’s a question I always pose to our group,” Lawson says. “How do we make something that feels like it’s been open for several years?” If Ètra continues on the path it started, it’s well on its way.
Photography by: DANIELLE G. ADAMS
