Two years since opening at Row DTLA, Kato is at the top of its game, surprising and delighting diners one delicious bite at a time.
Team Kato’s Ryan Bailey, Jon Yao and Nikki Reginaldo; PHOTO BY COLLEEN O’BRIEN
Helmed by three partners—chef Jonathan Yao, GM Nikki Reginaldo, operations and beverage director Ryan Bailey—and bar director Austin Hennelly, Kato is an award-winning ode to Taiwanese cooking with a decidedly California twist. The restaurant opened on the West Side in 2016, and two years ago, it moved to a new location at Row DTLA. Since then, it has received rave reviews for a thoughtfully imagined and beautifully executed omakase menu and an exciting, inventive cocktail program. Since Kato claimed the top spot on the 2023 Los Angeles Times“101 Best Restaurants” list, reservations are somewhat competitive.
An industrial-meets-zen design—think polished concrete, steel, light wood and lots of glass—greets diners as they enter the restaurant, which looks out to Row DTLA’s glimmering string lights and trees. Although the restaurant is categorized as fine dining—and has the service, food and drinks that warrant it—there’s not an ounce of pretension. The entire staff is warm, welcoming and happy to dive into stories about each cocktail, meal or ingredient.
A quiet moment at the bar; PHOTO BY JENI AFUSO
Everything about the beverage program is impressive, even down to the ice. Kato works with 101-year-old Japanese ice producer Kuramoto, who produces the highest quality ice for cocktails—perfectly clear and precisely cut. Beyond delicious cocktails and a beautiful Old Fashioned Cart—where drinks are made tableside from a choice of three cask-finished whiskies—there’s an extensive array of nonalcoholic options, including an alcohol-free flight to pair with the menu. Here, sober guests—and diners who don’t feel like imbibing—are taken on a tasty journey via zero-proof cider and wines from around the world. Standouts include the Bitter Melon cocktail, a herbaceous drink with bitter melon and clarified Korean cucumber. Cocktails with an alcoholic kick, like the espresso martini, are as beautiful as they are delicious.
Poured tableside and garnished with coffee milk jellies, the espresso martini is served atop shaved Kuramoto ice; PHOTO BY COLLEEN O’BRIEN
There are two options: the Bar Tasting Menu, featuring Kato classics, and the dining room Tasting Menu. Both seasonally inspired, the dining room menu consists of nine courses, with the option to add—at least on the night we dined—a beef course. Chef Yao’s childhood in the San Gabriel Valley plays a big part in the stories behind the menu, which builds in richness and heft as the meal progresses. The winter squash wonton with Cantonese curry evokes his memories of eating Hong Kong-style dinners in the SGV. The Atlantic lobster toast with black pepper is an homage to the lobster dishes of the area, precisely one that Newport Seafood made popular. Slowly grilled over almond embers and actual Japanese white charcoal, the lobster is basted in lobster oil and seasoned with an emulsion of fat from the head, then set over a fried lobster toast with habanero marinated sweet peppers and a puree of peppers roasted in the wood oven. “It’s supposed to elicit memories of eating large plates of Chinese-style lobster with a side of fried bread to dip,” Yao explains.
Aged Liberty Duck with pine mushrooms and soy preserved vegetables; PHOTO BY COLLEEN O’BRIEN
While most tasting menu experiences make my husband antsy, dining at Kato kept him—and me!—excited, entertained and in awe the entire time. Each dish tells a story; every bite is carefully considered—but never overwrought. We loved chatting with our waiter, who was incredibly generous with his time, considering how busy the restaurant was. And speaking of it, although busy, the restaurant never felt frenetic or cramped. Two years along at its new location, Kato continues to be a bright light in the L.A. dining scene. We’ll be back—if we’re lucky enough to get in.
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