By Jasmin Rosemberg By Jasmin Rosemberg | May 18, 2023 | Food & Drink,
L.A.’s dining scene is on fire this summer thanks to some hot new additions, from green-tinged Sur le Vert wine bar in Beverly Hills to French bistro Coucou in Venice Beach.
Loreto’s Torre tower of shrimp, bluefin tuna, Mayan octopus, scallop and uni PHOTO BY JAKOB LAYMAN
LORETO
After bringing Mexico City to Los Angeles with Arts District favorite LA Cha Cha Chá, Alejandro Marin and team sought to share their love of cuisine from Baja with Loreto. “Unlike other regions in Mexico, which rely on indigenous or traditional recipes and techniques, Baja’s food is more modern and comes from different cultures layering ingredients and techniques,” says Marin. “There is a clear Mediterranean, Japanese and Chinese influence in the dishes.” Named after the first colonial settlement on the Baja California peninsula, Loreto is a 10,000-square-foot adaptive reuse of a former industrial warehouse in Frogtown. “There is a sense of time stopping,” says architect and designer Lena Kohl, whose design preserves the original building through exposed old concrete block walls and a bowstring ceiling structure. “The overall design refers to the landscape and architecture in Baja, focusing on the contrast between the ocean and the desert.” From interior and exterior dining areas, guests can journey through the Mar de Cortés via executive chef Paco Moran’s dishes, such as the Tostada a la Joaquin with flamed toro or the Torre seafood tower—complemented by fresh citrus cocktails. A bottle shop offers beer, wine and crudo (to-stay or to-go), and casual daytime concept Za Za Zá serves fresh, seafood-forward lunch items on the outdoor patio. loreto.la
Sur le Vert now occupies the ground-level space that previously housed The Café at Tommy’s Beverly Hills. PHOTO: BY RYAN GOBUTY PHOTOGRAPHY
SUR LE VERT When an opportunity arose to take over the ground-floor Beverly Hills space on Canon Drive that previously housed The Café at Tommy’s Beverly Hills and Bar Bouchon, the team behind Tabula Rasa Bar and Shop in Los Feliz was excited to bring its own flavor to the area. “We loved that it is a walking neighborhood with a vibrant community scene, and the space itself was a no-brainer—all that gorgeous green!” says Nicole Dougherty, who opened Sur le Vert with co-owner Zach Negin. The chic wine bar’s name (French for “on the green”) and warm green interiors nod to the verdant Beverly Canon Gardens outside. “We basically just added plants, people and wine!” Dougherty says. “The space was so beautiful as it was; we didn’t need to change much. We brought our own energy in.” In addition to stellar service helmed by Sean Beckner-Carmitchel (Hotel Bel-Air), patrons can rely on well-made products from small family-run businesses. Pair selections of unique, natural and hard-to-find wines from independent wineries with cheese and charcuterie boards, crudos, and grilled cheese and chicken sandwiches from chef Ben Stephens (Church & State, Acquerello). As for this summer? Says Negin, “Expect copious spritzes on the veranda, some special wines inside at the bar and more delectable dishes from our kitchen team.” surlevert.com
The steak frites from new French bistro and cocktail bar Coucou in Venice Beach BY NICK WALKER STUDIOS
COUCOU“Jesse and I a re complete Francophiles,” says Hayley Feldman, who, along with her husband and business partner, recently transformed her previous Venice restaurant Chez Tex into bar-forward French bistro Coucou. “There is nothing more romantic than the energy of a Parisian restaurant, where the crowd is thick, and you’re clamoring to get a table for two. We love the experience of ice-cold cocktails being shaken in the background and a beautiful plate of steak frites or fresh oysters in front of you.” The space has new warmth with bistro lights and pendants, an art gallery wall featuring work from independent artists, comfy cognac-colored booths and a t riple-arched bar with reflective mirrors. Equally welcoming is Coucou’s celebration of aperitif culture: “A casual, low-commitment drink or bite that eases you into the evening,” Feldman says. Don’t miss former Bouchon chef Jacob Wetherington’s dishes like the L’Haute Dog, mussels marinere or grilled dorade—and Feldman’s favorite drinks like the Mosh Bites Back aperitif or The Perfect Martini. This summer will see expanded outdoor dining, meet-the-winemaker events, live music and Monday-night collaborations. Says Feldman, “The sunset hours are low-key, and as soon as the lights go down, it becomes a party.” coucou.la
Barra Santos transports guests to Portugal from Cypress Park. COURTESY OF LAST WORD HOSPITALITY
BARRA SANTOS For Last Word Hospitality partner and director of operations Mike Santos—who loved eating grilled sardines and drinking Portuguese wines at his parents’ home in Pawtucket, Rhode Island—Barra Santos was years in the making. “I grew up in a heavily Portuguese community where the food and wine of that country were readily available,” he says, “and we wanted to bring that casual but super high-quality experience to L.A.” The team behind Found Oyster, Nossa Caipirinha Bar and The Copper Room had been looking for a “very small, naturally charming space”—which they found in Cypress Park. “We always want our places to feel like they’ve been there for years,” says Santos, who loved the 615-square-foot venue’s old brick walls and wood beam ceiling. The intimate indoor-outdoor eatery features traditional handpainted blue and white Portuguese tile, millwork cabinetry and a red oak bar—serving wines from Portugal and Spain alongside sherry, port and Madeira selections. The menu by executive chef and partner Melissa López (Barbuto, Bestia) is equally authentic, with dishes inspired by Santos’ mother’s recipes, like Bacalao fritters, and classic Portuguese items like a marinated pork sandwich. This summer, López is looking forward to cooking fresh sardines, anchovies and tomatoes. She notes, “The food and drink of Portugal are uniquely suited for hanging out with friends on hot days.” barrasantosla.com
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