By Jasmin Rosemberg By Jasmin Rosemberg | March 16, 2023 | Food & Drink, Migration,
With stellar sushi and authentic dishes, L.A.’s newest restaurants offer a taste of Japan.
“Sailfish” crudo from plant-based omakase sushi bar Kasaki PHOTO: BY MATT HERTER/THIRTY THREE WOLVES
KUSAKI
Restaurateur Jade Estrella feels fortunate to live in a city so conscious of the vegan community. “However, I began to notice that there weren't any options if you wanted to get dolled up and go sit at a fully plant-based omakase sushi bar,” says Estrella, who teamed up with chef Dillon Bolin of Michelin-starred omakase restaurant Sushi|Bar Los Angeles to create Kusaki (“plant” in Japanese). “Kusaki set out to bring the traditional style of Japanese cuisine, offering nigiri and sashimi options, with our own unique contribution.” Enjoy Estrella’s plant-based favorites like seared “tuna” nigiri, “salmon” shiso and a shishito burger in a chic, minimalist space on South Barrington Avenue—complete with a plant wall. “When you walk into our restaurant, the ambiance and modern design take you on an experience in which you forget where you are,” Estrella notes. “The omakase bar and the intimate culinary connection we provide is transforming.” West L.A., kusakila.com
Koi Restaurant, a La Cienega staple for over two decades, moved into a larger, more modern space next door PHOTO: COURTESY OF KOI LOS ANGELES
KOI RESTAURANT
Since opening on La Cienega in 2002, Koi’s L.A. flagship garnered a starry following. But when the lease was nearing its end, Koi Hospitality Group founder and CEO Nick Haque took the opportunity to revamp the original location of the Japanese fusion brand he’d expanded to New York and Vegas. “It felt like the right time to give Koi an updated look and make a move to our own space right next door,” Haque says. The bigger, modernized venue includes the restaurant’s original patio, which had been repurposed 10 years ago, as well as Koi’s signature Zen Buddhist design touches. However, the new adjacent space boasts a lighter color palette and lush greenery inspired by the group’s first Koi Resort, on St. Kitts. In addition to classic dishes like the crispy rice and miso bronzed cod, a new vegan menu features equally delicious sushi options like the Aka Vegan Roll with tofu, avocado and beets. Pair dishes with creative new cocktails from Josh Goldman, such as the Silent Assassin—his take on a spicy margarita. West Hollywood, koirestaurant.com
KAVIAR Restaurants’ DTLA location serves a diverse fusion of sushi and rich, rare wagyus. PHOTO: COURTESY OF KAVIAR RESTAURANTS
KAVIAR To build on the success of the Pasadena outpost, KAVIAR Restaurants co-owner and Brand Worldwide Group Inc. founder Tigran Oganessian teamed up with executive chef John Hans Yeo, style icon Aureta and managing partner Charles Lew to bring the luxe Japanese concept to Downtown Los Angeles. “We came across this Arts District location and felt a strong connection to it instantly,” says Oganessian, who maintained the building’s authenticity with exposed brick but added the rich colors and textures characteristic of KAVIAR. The more creative downtown counterpart—which flaunts a Samurai glass case, local artwork and a private Aureta tasting room—also offers a different menu. “The Pasadena location is still very much sushi-centric with an extensive sake list,” says Oganessian. “The Los Angeles location offers a more diverse fusion of sushi; rich, rare wagyus; and a full bar with an eccentric cocktail program.” Try staple items like the 24K gold toro roll with truffles and caviar, or downtown’s exclusive Japanese Mexican fusion dish, the al pastor Chilean sea bass. Downtown L.A., kaviarrestaurants.com
Leona’s Sushi House offers Japanese-inspired dishes from uni wrapped in halibut to robata selections PHOTO COURTESY OF BRANDS
LEONA’S SUSHI HOUSE
“In 1987, I got lucky and found a nice little building on the stretch of Ventura Boulevard in Studio City close to Laurel Canyon and opened La Loggia,” says restaurateur Frank Leon of his Italian eatery that was a favorite of film folks for 33 years. Leon then teamed up with chef Shigenori Fujimoto (of Matsuhisa and Michelin-starred Asanebo) and actor and musician Evan Ross (also behind Beverly Hills Mexican haunt The Hideaway) to transform the former 5,000-square-foot La Loggia space into Leona’s Sushi House. “We wanted to offer guests different choices of where they want to eat, sip or hang out,” says Ross of the seating options—which include a living room, sushi house and garden room with a marble fireplace. Amid the elegant decor, guests can enjoy Japanese-inspired dishes like uni wrapped in halibut with caviar, grilled Kobe tongue and robata selections. “We are not just your average sushi bar on Ventura Boulevard,” Ross says. “Our large space allows us to have different vibes.” Studio City, leonasla.com
Sushi Note’s halibut yuzu PHOTO COURTESY OF BRANDS
SUSHI BY SCRATCH RESTAURANTS: LOS ANGELES
“Growing up in Encino, Los Angeles’ Valley has always felt like home to me,” says Phillip Frankland Lee, who began his restaurant empire with wife Margarita Kallas-Lee in the area with Scratch|Bar. The “from scratch” approach is at the heart of all their restaurants, which include Michelin-starred Sushi by Scratch Restaurants in Montecito and Pasta Bar in L.A. On Dec. 31, the pair opened Sushi by Scratch Restaurants: Los Angeles on the first floor of Ventura Boulevard’s Encino Place—which housed their Scratch|Bar, Pasta|Bar and Sushi|Bar. “People are looking for more private experiences, and we felt this was the perfect opportunity to transition our existing sushi restaurant into a private dining space, and turn the available space downstairs into a new and improved version of a nigiri tasting menu concept,” Lee says. Like all of their restaurants, this one is a 10-seat counter experience, where guests will enjoy a 17-course nigiri tasting menu with signatures like hamachi painted with sweet corn pudding or bluefin tuna with homemade soy sauce. Encino, sushibyscratchrestaurants.com
Phillip Frankland Lee and wife Margarita Kallas-Lee of Sushi by Scratch Restaurants: Los Angeles. PHOTO COURTESY OF BRANDS
SUSHI NOTE OMAKASE
After Andy Paxson and Dave Gibbs opened Sushi Note in Sherman Oaks in 2018, their omakase experience pairing beautiful sushi with fantastic wines became increasingly popular. “The guest feedback was what really made it clear to us that we already indeed had a new brand within the brand,” says Paxson, whose next concept with Gibbs is a 12-seat, omakase-only restaurant at Beverly Hills’ famed Rodeo Collection property. “We happened to be looking for a space at the exact same time they reached out to us,” says Gibbs of the small, inviting venue replete with imported Japanese hinoki wood. Says Paxson, “We want every guest that walks through the door to feel the quality of the experience even before taking a seat.” Once they do, they’ll enjoy a “20-moment” experience by original Sushi Note chef Kiminobu Saito with an optional wine pairing. Beginning with goma tofu, the meal will include 15 nigiri selections of Japanese market fish and will conclude with a signature tomago—followed by a yuzu gelato dessert created with Gelato Festival in Beverly Hills. Beverly Hills, sushinotela.com
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