With exquisite flavors and sensational design, Stella West Hollywood is a can’t-miss hit.
Tette della monaca—which translates to ‘nuns boobs’—is a traditional dessert from Southern Italy; PHOTO BY JACOB LAYMAN
Certain L.A. spots are so much more than the physical spaces they inhabit. Something about the spirit, the memories and the history hold a special place in Angelenos’ hearts. Madeo—which closed years ago when construction of 8899 Beverly began—is one of those places. Beloved by industry folks, celebrities, musicians and more, it stood out and is now thriving in a new Sunset Blvd. location. Needless to say, Stella West Hollywood, which recently moved into the old Madeo space, has big shoes to fill. But with a stellar team, including restaurateur Janet Zuccarini and chef Rob Gentile, a recipe for success is in place.
The restaurant resides in the former Madeo space on Beverly Blvd; PHOTO BY JACOB LAYMAN
The first thing you’ll notice upon entering the restaurant is how absolutely gorgeous it is. Inspired by the work of midcentury Italian design masters such as Gio Ponti, Ico Parisi, and Carlo Mollino, the design by L.A.-based Wendy Haworth is chic and contemporary—a fresh take on charming restaurants found in Milan. The bi-level restaurant has two distinct areas. The main entrance opens onto the light and airy upper level, which features a large terrace. Book a table here if you’re looking for a more laid-back experience. The moody downstairs space is where the action is. Expect walnut-paneled walls, Terrazzo floors, private banquettes and a beautiful private dining room. This is where the open kitchen and pasta lab—a fantastic glassed-in area where fresh pasta is made throughout the evening—reside and where lively guests all seem to know each other. Busy bars reside on both levels.
Wendy Haworth designed the stunning two-story restaurant; PHOTO BY JACOB LAYMAN
There’s an extensive wine list. plus fresh takes on classic cocktails. Three different negronis are on offer (Classic, Chef’s and Bianco) and three martinis (Oilo d’Oliva, which comes with a choice of olive oil, Espresso and Meta’ e Meta’, which comes with Sardinian gin or vodka). Cocktails, including the Pompelmo Julep (mezcal, cynar, Italicos, grapefruit, mint) and Toronto (Redwood Empire rye, Nocino, Fernet, toasted pecan), are all intriguing, but I selected the Aero di Carta (1776 Bourbon, Aperol, Amaro Nonino, lemon, vanilla), the restaurant’s take on a Paper Plane. Loved it! For non-drinkers, the bar can make a variety of mocktails, which my husband enjoyed thoroughly.
The Oilo d’Oliva martini is made with Carbonadi vodka, Botanivore Gin and a choice of olive oil; PHOTO BY JACOB LAYMAN
Consisting of food inspired by the coastal and pastoral regions of Italy—Sardinia, Marche, Calabria, Puglia, Genova, Lazio, Campagna and Toscana—the menu features rustic dishes modernized with new techniques and seasonal California ingredients. We paired garlic and rosemary garlic knots and warm olives with the showstopping carpaccio di branzino, which was sliced tableside and finished with Meyer lemon, olive oil and salt from Cervia. Other dishes that looked interesting included the dry-aged black cod with chili, bergamot, seaweed and citrus dressing and the dry-aged Ora king salmon with squid ink salt, agretti and smoked olive oil.
The uber-fresh branzino carpaccio—finished with Meyer lemon, olive oil and sea salt—is prepared tableside; PHOTO BY JACOB LAYMAN
Pasta, pizza, fish and meat, oh my! The incredible fresh pastas were the star of the show for my husband and I—we loved peering into the Pasta Lab and watching the process. The hand-rolled strozzapreti—translation: priest stranglers—with a four-peppercorn blend and fresh bianchetti truffle is a must-order, and the su filindeu, served in bone broth with pecorino dolce and braised lamb neck, is also worth trying. Chef Gentile studied the art of making this intricately woven creation, considered the world’s rarest pasta, in Sardinia. The cut-with-scissors pizzas are delicious. We enjoyed the mortadella version with stracciatella cheese, pistachio pesto and Sicilian oregano but want to return to sample the buffalo mozzarella and soppressata versions. To be expected, there’s fish and meat on the menu and some truly incredible sides, like the local white asparagus and the Sicilian squash vines—something I have personally not ever seen in L.A.
Strozzapreti cacio e pepe with fresh Blanchette truffle; PHOTO BY JACOB LAYMAN
After eating so decadently, we almost passed on dessert. But the chef insisted we try one of the special menu items, the Cassata Siciliana. Presented on a pedestal, the gorgeous green confection was one of the most beautiful things I’ve seen. Then, I tasted it. Pistachio, chocolate, ricotta—my mind went blank as the gorgeous soft texture and sweet, nutty flavor hit my tongue. It was a dessert to remember and one I must have again, at least quarterly! Other options include tiramisu’ alla Romana, sfogliatella, gelato and more.
We visited Stella a few weeks after it opened and were thoroughly impressed with the warm service, the memorably delicious food and drinks, and the exciting, buzzy atmosphere. It was hard to believe we were dining at a brand new restaurant. Will we be back? As long as we can get a reservation, we’re in.
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